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Featherweight "Club"

An open "club" for Singer featherweight owners, wanna be owners, and enthusiasts. To also include any vintage sewing machines.

Members: 366
Latest Activity: Aug 22

Discussion Forum

Featherweight "Club"

Started by Bev Shelton. Last reply by Sandy Beauchamp Aug 22. 2 Replies

I am the lucky owner of 2 featherweights. The first I looked and looked for until I found a 1947, which is my birth year. The second I bought at auction. Paid a fair to too much for each, but I do…Continue

antique hand crank machines

Started by Melva E Campbell. Last reply by S Jones Aug 6. 18 Replies

Any members have a hand crank sewing machine?I have an old Singer hand crank fiddle base machine that I am going to try finding the age, and another newer Singer with a model # I have a book that…Continue

Where did you get your Featherweight?

Started by Jennifer Schifano Thomas. Last reply by Trudy Double Aug 5. 58 Replies

I just love to tell people that my fiance found my Featherweight at a yard sale.  It was tagged for $5.00, but he bargained them down to $4.00!  I didn't even know about it until we got to the car.…Continue

FW model years - Are some years better than others?

Started by Jennifer Schifano Thomas. Last reply by Beth Byars Jun 4. 5 Replies

Does anyone know if there is an answer to this question?  I'm just curious.  I own a 1937, a 1940, and a 1951.  The 1940 model sews the best, but I have no idea if it was made better, taken better…Continue

Tags: machines, sewing, vintage, Featherweight, Singer

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Comment by rogue quilter Queen of the WIVSP on April 11, 2012 at 12:30pm

hi kathleen. that is so true. all machines slightly diff. that is why even tho i use and love the little feet. i measure fr needle for seam settings. i use, again, my drafting ruler. set needle on quarter inch line, then place removable marker of some kind. i have used red electric tape. very little residue when you remove it. but now i have found a blue movable, raised blue strip from nancy's notions or clotilde or quilt supply catalogue to place if i want to change seam allowance. i have not seen it at joannes or hancocks. but diff stores in diff locations carry diff inventory.

Comment by Kathleen Clendennen on April 11, 2012 at 12:10pm

I often do projects on my Designer I Husqvarna Viking, my 1948 Centennial Featherweight, 1938 Featherweight and an old Brother machine I bought new in 1969.  They all have different feet and needle positions that result in a slightly different 1/4 inch. Of course, all but the Designer I have needles that can NOT be moved right and left and so just have to be aware of this and make a manual adjustment when I work on an already started project (most of them). After a big problem when I first discovered this several years ago, I have learned where the spot is for each of my machines so that it no longer matters that I have used a different machine for an ongoing project.  Life and learn category learning!

Comment by rogue quilter Queen of the WIVSP on April 11, 2012 at 11:46am

hi all. don't see a response re: the 1/4 inch foot. the brand name is Little Foot. they measure 'scan't 1/4 inch wide. i have been using this foot for over 20 yrs. the new ones [i just bought two...one for the fw that i haul around and one for the machine at home] have a wider left edge and cover the feed dogs. the old one that i took off the fw had an extremely narrow left side. the new ones are much better. note: i was getting wider seams on machine at home than the seams sewn on fw. i do minis...this leads to critical errors in finished blocks. friend told me that she believed that the little feet were irregular...i.e. - not all same width. so i took all of mine and measure...first with inch measurement ruler then with metric. both were my drafting rulers. accurate. and all four feet. the 2 new, 2 old...were exactly the same width. the moral of this story is i guess. that with different machines, the variations in thier size where the needle is etc can still result in varying seam allowances - therefore...diligence while working on diff machines if working on same project on more than one machine. additional note: i measure the seams stitched on necchi w/little foot...exactly 1/4 inch between edge of fab and seam...on fw..exactly scant 1/4 inch betw edge of fab and seam.

Comment by Kathleen Clendennen on April 10, 2012 at 12:26pm

You can get all sorts of Featherweight parts from www.thequiltgal.com.

Comment by Mary Ann Robinson Davis on April 10, 2012 at 9:16am

I have gotten 1/4 feet for my FW's from the Featherweight 221 web site.  Very nice folks to deal with.  Also have their book & DVD on FW upkeep. 

Comment by Beth Hammergren on April 9, 2012 at 11:23pm

Thanks for the information Jennifer.   The International Quilt Show is this weekend in Cincinnati, so going to check there first.  Then Paducah at the end of the month.  If no luck then I know that I can check out this site, as well as knowing a price range. I would love to have the original box refurbished, but I am sure that is way outside of my financial capabilities.

Comment by Jennifer Beltz on April 9, 2012 at 11:11pm

Hi Beth

sewingonline.com sells repro cases for about $70...or you could try ebay. I just got my featherweight today and it does not have a seam guide. I was looking online for one and that is how I know who has cases. I have ordered from the website I gave you and they are very good and I have always been pleased.

 

Comment by Beth Hammergren on April 9, 2012 at 11:07pm

Just got my first Featherweight a few months ago thru a local online auction.  I want to take a class on how to take care of it and use of it.  Does anyone know where you can get cases for them.  Unfortunately, the case that came with this one is missing its bottom.  The insert is still intact with the instruction book, attachments, etc.

Comment by Brenda Ruiz on April 9, 2012 at 6:15pm

My featherweights and 301 machines are my "go to" machines as well.

Comment by Karen S Pollard on April 9, 2012 at 2:27pm

My Featherweights are my "go to" machines when my expensive fancy ones aren't cooperating.  I can always count on them to do the job.  Just think how amazing it is that machines made from the 1930s-1960s are still going strong.  Today's computerized machines can't even begin to compare.

 

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